An American In Palestine

Getting Out, Getting Sick and Getting Home

2011-07-23T15:52:00.000-07:00

We had our big break between sessions on Aug 12th and I just had to get out! I decided to take the chance of getting deported and not getting back to all my stuff in Beit Sahour to cross some borders. So I headed to Eilat, Israel for a night and then off to Jordan for two days and then Egypt for two days. It was a whirlwind of an adventure that ended with me getting sick and coming home.

It became more and more difficult to live in occupied territory. It seemed like every time I got out of the West Bank something bad or annoying happened. Like when I went to Jerusalem and got hassled by vendors. The last time I went to the Old City one grabbed my arm and insisted I stay and look at more of his stuff. It made me very uncomfortable, especially when he didn’t let go right away after I asked him to.

But I had to get out. At least as an American, I felt trapped there and not having the freedom I have in the US was starting to cause… I don’t know I guess cabin fever kinda. I started noticing and hearing things that told me to get out as well. In the West Bank guns are everywhere and the tanks seemed to be rolling in. Tension was getting higher and higher because the Palestine Authority is taking a bid for statehood to the UN in September. I have not been to a meeting in a month so I am pretty tense too. It seems there are more and more protests and violence in the area. Also the locals are talking about the Third Intifada happening and some even think after Sept. the Third World War. Yea, so I decided to leave for Jordan and Egypt.

First I went to Petra in Jordan to visit one of the 7 wonders of the world. This is the site where Indiana Jones and The Temple of Doom was filmed. It is an ancient city carved in the red stone of the mountains. INCREDIBLE!

The best part of the entire trip including Egypt was Wadi Rum in Jordan. Wadi Rum is the most beautiful desert I have ever been to. It was so quiet and wonderful to feel free and like the entire desert was mine if I wanted it to be. My friend Jen and I climbed a mountain to view the famous sunsets in the Valley of the Moon. After dinner we stayed the night with our Bedouin guide, and slept by the fire under the stars. I didn’t want to leave and would go back in a second.

Next was Egypt: Cairo, the Pyramids, and climbing Mt Sinai. Cairo is a five-hour drive from Taba Border in Eilat. After the long drive we entered the city and the sky was white. It was early morning and the mist of the Nile and the pollution turned the sky white and the air was full of moisture. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. Breakfast and then a dream come true. I have been fascinated with the Nile since I was a little kid and always dreamed of taking a trip to see the sources of the White and Blue Nile, where they meet and of course where the river dries up North of Cairo. I did it! Well, not all of it, but I did get to sail on the Nile. J

Cairo was disgusting though. Some that know me, know that I view Nashville as the most disgusting and dirty city I have visited. Not anymore Cairo takes the lead, with trash everywhere along with traffic and cars, it is a little less then 200 sq. miles and has a population of 14 million people- it was busy and nasty.

Outside the city I visited another wonder of the world, Giza. The pyramids are wonders; I can’t even write about them, you just need to go see them for yourself. It was super hot and eating lunch after seemed to be a chore. Later we went to Tahrir Square. The square is now famous because of the events that took place there during the revolution this year. One million people gathered in Tahrir Square to protest the corrupt government and later succeeded in overthrowing Mubarak. They are still not happy. We couldn’t get into Tahrir because another protest was going on. In Cairo the tensions are not as high as in the West Bank, but because the military is running the country they are everywhere. Mini checkpoints are all over the city and surrounding areas. Later we visited the Cairo tower and the famous shopping bazaar of Khan El-Khalili. We also went to the Egyptian Museum where outside we saw another relic of the revolution, the burnt building of the Democratic Nationalist Party. Thinking about how this is where the “Arab Spring” started and looking at that building made me think about where it could go and the possibilities of entire cities in the Middle East burnt to the ground. It could happen and that scares me.

Then, it was back to the border. On the way back we stopped at the Suez Canal and the museum. You can’t see the canal from the road it is so well protected it is unbelievable. I thought of my Dad and how much he would have loved seeing the museum and reading the explanations of how it was built and how it is managed. Once we reached the border we dropped off the lady that I went on the tour with and I headed to Mt Sinai. Mt Sinai was a two-hour drive from the border and I had no sleep. We left the border for Cairo the night before at 11pm, about 24 hours later and I was headed to Mt Sinai to start a 2 am climb to the top to catch the sunrise.

Mt Sinai or the mountain of Moses is 8,000 feet and the second tallest mountain in the Sinai. I climbed it sick as a dog but I climbed it. I started getting sick on the way back to the border and by the time I got to the mountain it was in full swing. I was throwing up and had to stop at every little, disgusting outhouse along the way to go to the bathroom. I didn’t think I was going to make it up and I don’t know how I did. Once at the top the view was spectacular and the sunrise was epic. The trek down was even more painful and I took a quick look at the burning bush and the golden calf and headed to Nuweiba to stay in a hotel. The next morning I was off to the border on a bus and still sick. I hate to write it, but things just got worse.

After arriving at the Israel border, I was questioned and seriously feared I was going to get deported. They questioned me for 3 hours with 3 different people. Custom officials kept asking me if I was in Gaza along with other questions. They did all that and never even checked my luggage; it was truly upsetting, especially when it caused me to miss my bus back to Jerusalem. Once through border security I took a cab to the station and the driver gave me a price and then upped it by 15 shekels. Forty shekels were all I had so we argued and his face got bright red and I thought he was going to hit me. He took my luggage out of the trunk and threw it about four feet. I missed my bus and had to wait two more hours. Then I got kicked off that bus after my return ticket somehow got stamped so the bus driver wouldn't let me on and was a real jerk. I was in the bus station all day so once I got to Jerusalem I had to walk a few miles to save money and take a cab from East Jerusalem to Bethlehem because the busses stopped running.

Still sick I arrived back in Beit Sahour and found out that the shelter was still not in place for my last month. Taking into consideration being sick, the heightened danger, not being at the shelter yet, not really learning Arabic (classes were disappointing), and the feeling of being trapped I decided to book an early flight home. The last month was refunded to the man who so generously donated funds for my trip and I said goodbye to my host family- that was the hardest thing about leaving early, I will miss them.

I got home and Mom had made an appointment to see the doctor. We did some test but I don’t know the results yet. The doctor thought because it was so painful to eat anything I may have pancreatitis again. I am pretty much on a liquid diet at this point and have lost about five pounds. Let’s just say that I am glad to be home and will never forget this experience.

I never felt much when I looked at the American flag, but I do now. I feel grateful, privileged, free, prosperous and on top of that sad for those who don’t have the luxury of feeling that way about the country of their birth. Sad that I left a country that isn’t really a country and a family that lives in a place where their flag represents captivity more than anything else. I would imagine the weight of that conviction will live in my soul forever and the memory of that place I will carry with me always.

So, will I go back? To Israel, no. I did not like the cities or the people of Israel. To the West Bank, yes. But only to visit my family… and only for a week. ;)

Wishing you Blessings and Safe Travels

Processing

2011-07-08T23:22:00.000-07:00

So I know I have not written in a while, my bad. Well this whole conflict is bad. I mean seriously, living and learning here changes things. I have been processing much of my experience in the last week. My perspective has changed a bit since my last post. It is difficult to explain the emotional and academic experience that has become a vital part of my journey here. But I will start with the trip we took to Hebron.

Hebron

Hebron is the largest city in the West Bank. It has a sad history and the present isn’t much better. I will make it simple and just say that Hebron used to be a Jewish city, then an Arab city, synagogues were turned into mosques and then turned into the cluster of tension that is Hebron today.

Today the city is split with Arabs and Jews both living in the same community, but not being communal, I think you get what I mean. In 1994 a Jewish man entered the mosque and opened fire on Muslims that were praying, killing 29 people and wounding over 100. The Muslims caught him in the church, took him to a corner and beat him with a fire extinguisher until he died. The cities solution was to split the holy place in half. When I say holy I mean the Abraham mosque, where Abraham and Sarah’s tombs are. So needless to say, the tension of that day still lives in Hebron. Hebron is the only city in the West Bank where there are settlements in the city.

The presence of the settlements breeds a new tension. It was common when walking the city to see soldiers on top of settlement buildings, trash a foot high in the Arab balconies below them, and fences atop market places. The Arab vendors in the market for protection built fences above the walkway to catch the trash the settlers were throwing. When walking around the city everyone has guns, even though there are soldiers everywhere Arabs and Jews are carrying guns too. A man who was running a Jewish Museum and school in Hebron was quite keen on telling us all about his pistol.

We went to the Museum and took a tour and then listened to a lecture. This was the first lecture by someone who was Jewish. He talked about the history of his people in Hebron and the fear they now face. He told a story about a time during the second Intifada when bullets from the Arab villagers entered his home and just missed his children. There are now holes in his wall to commemorate this event.

It was in his reverie when he made reference to his pistol and that he carried it at all times for protection. This was also the time when he stated that Muslims were trying to take over the world. Oh yes, he said that and it caused a stir among the highly educated students of the PSE program. I took that statement into consideration when taking a tour of the grounds.

When touring the outside and playground, I saw children playing under the watchful eyes of their mothers with their large purses over their shoulders and men in plain clothes with rifles over their shoulders.

As a saw these children their mothers and protectors on the playground I realized how much fear both sides of the conflict were living in. It was at that point that my narrative became a little deeper and my scope a little wider. I have always felt that to pick a side in this conflict would negate the victimization of the other and I just cant do that. It was then with the “other side” looking up at me that I finally saw my reasons. Before that moment my reasons were purely academic. But they were no longer, there they were, the flesh and bone of why this thing that we call the Arab-Israeli conflict is so complex. And why maybe, just maybe hearing both sides and praying for both sides is more important then picking one side.

Tent of Nations

Tent of Nations is a little place outside Bethlehem with a huge story and an even bigger heart. It is the home of David his family and a group of volunteers who make the farm into a shining beacon of hope for peace in Palestine.

David’s family has owned the 100 acres of land since 1916. His grandfather bought the land in 1916 and moved his family from Bethlehem onto the farm to live in a cave. At that time the land of Palestine was under Ottoman rule and it was required that owners register their land and pay taxes. Many people did not and if they did lets just say that the 100 acres became one acre. Not David’s grandfather he registered it all, saved the papers, paid the taxes and cultivated his land.

The papers came in handy under the British Mandate and the farm remained in the family. After 1948 the papers were not enough for Israel. David has spent over $170,000 trying to prove in court that this land is his and he will stay on it. He is still battling this and now the case is being heard in the Supreme Court.

His court battle started with ownership, then it was surveying the land to make sure all of it was his, third it was building permits and demolished structures, now it is blocking of access to the outside world. We had to get off the bus and walk because the road to his home was blocked off. His home is on a hill and his land also consists of the valley below. All around is Israeli settlements. He has done battle with soldiers and settlers, the Israeli courts and yet he still seeks his right to be on his land and states these rights through non-violent actions.

He also states his rights and mission through education. The home is now a summer camp. Kids come and learn about the struggle and the non-violent way to peace. They also learn the importance of heritage and of "mother earth," David’s words not mine. He teaches them about solar energy. And shares the story of until two years ago they had no electricity and now they run on solar power. He shows them how they use rainwater because they do not have running water. He teaches them how to plant trees and tend to crops and animals.

You get where I am going with this? Yea let me just say that this place is incredible and I was so moved being there. I also have a little Tent of Nations story to tell about myself…

A Little Arab Man Put Me On A Little Arab Horse

I got to ride a horse while I was there! I thought I heard horses when I was walking up the hill with the group. I asked David and he pointed to where they were and said to go with his brother. The little Arab man led me, just me, to share a few moments with a little Arabian horse named Radi.

Gosh, they are tiny! I had forgotten how little Arabians were, she was so cute. Well, she was cute when she wasn’t trying to bite me. J

When she wasn’t trying to bite me I was on her back. The little Arab man, I don’t remember his name so he will forever be “The Little Arab Man”, gave me a boost and let me ride her. He was completely comfortable after I told him I once owned six horses. I, of course, was completely comfortable riding bareback.

What a cool experience! I got to see the gorgeous mountains while trotting around the hill and saying horse commands in Arabic. I learned that to make an Arabian horse in Arab lands go you say, “D, D, D” instead of making the “click click” sound. And of course you use the Arabic word for go which is “yella”. Ah yes, it was very cool to smell like horse again.

Clarity on Settlements and Soldiers

So I was talking to someone who has a very negative view of settlements and those who live in them. It was actually a very intelligent conversation about the misconceptions of the occupying forces. I shared my feelings on the topics of settlements and soldiers in the context of the occupation. I thought it would be important to share them with you as well.

There are two types of Israeli settlements, economic and religious. Economic settlements are the ones that most Pro Palestinian’s tend to forget about. And I admit, until this conversation, I had forgotten about them too and how important they are in keeping that “deeper narrative and wider scope” I mentioned before.

To be Jewish does not solely mean that you are of the Jewish faith but that you are of Jewish descent. If you can prove that descent you have the right to live in your homeland that is Israel.

So lets say that you are a starving mother of five children in the Ukraine. Your family has still not recovered from pre and post World War I, and the scars of the Holocaust have yet to heal. Your starving, your kids are starving and Israel is offering you a place to stay, good school systems and health care. You take the offer for your family, your children, and their families. You arrive in Israel with your children and your grandparents, your taken to a hilltop that is the “subsidized housing” we call settlements. In the Ukraine you didn’t have access to TV or the internet and never bought papers because feeding your children bread was more important then feeding them knowledge. So here you are, in this new country and have no idea that settlements are illegal under the UN and that along with the worldly powers that be your Palestinian neighbors across the way think you have no right to be there.

You now live in an economic settlement, a conflict zone and 24 hours ago all you wanted was a better place to raise a family. What would you do?

Religious settlements are simple, they have their own synagogues and most residents are extremely religious and are the type that would tell you without hesitation they are Zionists and they should have their homeland. These are usually the settlers that are causing trouble, if you can believe that. The concept of “loving your neighbor as yourself” seems to be lost in this conflict.

When she made a comment about Israeli soldiers I reminded her that in a way the Israeli military occupation of Palestine has caused a conflict in the psyche of it’s own military. Most of the soldiers are just young adults, 17 to 24 is the average age of a person serving in the IDF. The adults are suffering too. The rate of drug charges, domestic violence, assault, and even sexual assault is off the charts among military vets. And remember there is nothing to truly measure the trauma these young adults have to face, and may never face.

I think our conversation opened her eyes a bit wider as the visit to Hebron did for me. I hope the same can be said about you and this post. After this post I hope that you have a better understanding of the occupation and how I am beginning to see it. If you don’t understand and don’t know how or what to feel, that is okay. You can pray and if you are not religious then maybe you can agree that life would just be a whole lot better if you “loved your neighbor as yourself.” And you can start today…

PNN

2011-06-30T04:21:00.000-07:00

Here are the articles I have written for Palestine News Network (PNN). The first was a Human Rights piece and the second a Political piece.

"Hebrew Labor” Advertised in Israeli Yellow Pages
http://english.pnn.ps/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10329&Itemid=63

Texas Governor Rick Perry Launches Campaign to Prosecute US Flotilla Ships
http://english.pnn.ps/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=10358&Itemid=61

I am enjoying my time at PNN. However, I did speak with my funding source and the program about the shelter. They said I would hopefully be touring and meeting the staff before week’s end- Palestinian time that means next week.

Everything is so much slower here, it's great. You’re an hour late for a meeting, and you’re right on time. :)

Anyway, the program staff said they would be placing me somewhere I can get the 20 hours of counseling work to count towards my Continued Competency training, so all is well.

The Lowest Place on Earth

2011-06-28T12:57:00.000-07:00

We went to the Dead Sea on Sunday, located 400m below sea level, it was amazing! First and foremost, you do float. I thought it was a slight exaggeration every time I heard it, but I know now it is true. The sea is ridiculously salty and hurts your eyes and burns your mouth. The water is not for swimming, just floating, but the mud is remarkable. I put it all over my body and even on my face. I was feeling my face the entire way home, it was so soft. I wanted to see how expensive the products were, but the shop was closed. For those interested you can buy them online at www.deadseashops.com.

However, I would think twice before buying them. Here is why; the Dead Sea is in Area (Section) C, which has been completely taken over by Israel and the IDF has full control, no Palestinian Police are allowed. Israel sectioned all the land in such a way that any land with resources or of value as a tourist location is in Section C. (Same goes with my trip to Jerusalem, the money I spent there supports Israel not Palestine.) So you buy Dead Sea products you are buying from land that has been stolen and in essence an entire economy that has been stolen as well. The products from the land and the sales of those products support the economy of Israel and not Palestine. I was pissed when I was standing on Palestinian land and paid 50 Shekels to Israel to enter the Dead Sea beach.

All that is just another sad piece of what this conflict has created; the wall is only a small piece of it, On Sunday I was reminded that not only the people of Palestine have been repressed but it's economy as well.

The good news is that didn't ruin my day. I had a wonderful time with the family and Fadi and I both experienced the Dead Sea for the first time. He was afraid of the water and spent most of his time walking around the beach on his tip toes. Quasi actually fell asleep on my lap during the trip home. I said to Muhannad and Nancy with a smirk, "I like him like this," they laughed and agreed.

Random

2011-06-25T06:45:00.000-07:00

Obama- One for Dad:
Taxi drivers seem to know a little about American politics and have an opinion of our President. One driver simply said Obama's name and shook his head.

The laughable encounter went like this: I Got in a taxi in Bethlehem and the driver asked me where I was from. "America," I said. He said, "Ah, Obama, he talk, talk, talk and doesn't do anything." ;)

Wafat’s House- One for Sis:
Majdee, Muhannad’s brother and his wife, Wafat, live next door. She invited me to her home one evening and I was stunned when I walked in. It was beautiful! They had just refinished the cabinets, put in hard word floors and built an amazing tile ceiling and fire place. She had all sorts of cooking machines like cappuccino makers and juice makers, either tucked away or strategically placed on granite counter tops. Her decorating style was on par with my sister and I’s. Majdee’s remodeling talents rivaled my fathers. Totally amazing and I will show you pictures when I get home.

Food:
It is soo good, but I had to learn the word “shuban” which means "I am full, no more!"

I have eaten mloheh, a traditional Arabic meal that uses mloheh leaves in olive oil mixed with rice and chicken. The rice is different here; it is mixed with a thin noodle and lots of Arabic spices.

Also fakus is a vegetable that Beit Sahour is famous for. It is much like a cucumber. Today I had stuffed fakus. The vegetable is hollowed out and stuffed with meat and rice and cooked in a tomato-milk-cheese-sauce. Super yummy.

Ice cream bars and cones look nothing like the picture on the wrapper. You know the crunch bars in the states? I was so excited to find one that looked like that. When I opened it, there was no toffee crunch, just a chocolate covered ice cream bar.

There is an ice cream truck that drives by the house. I haven’t seen the driver but I wonder if they look like they do in the states- like they just got out of prison. Strangest thing, what is the deal with the ice cream truck drivers and how scary looking they are?

Arabic tea is amazing and so is mint lemonade. I found a drink I like and buy at the market. It is this juice mix of bananas and strawberries that comes in a can. I get it at the market up the street and the owners are super nice to me, I shop there a lot. I think they also like to ask me what new Arabic words I learned and laugh at the little American girl who speaks funny Arabic.

Oh and yes I smoked some hookah. :)

Housekeeping:
Prepare yourself; we don’t flush the toilet paper here. We throw it in the trash because of the pipes. Yep, it took some getting used to. So the big challenge is remembering that I don’t have to do that when I get back to the states.

Outlets are different too, and you have to buy an adapter to use them. They are weird circular plug things. I guess the good deal is the voltage is the same, so not as bad as Europe. I was told that in Europe you have to convert voltage as well.

Arabic:
Arabic grammar is hard, words I am good at and I am told pronounce them well. Just the grammar part is difficult. The language doesn't have words like "are, is, and was" and a ton of strange stuff. Like to say, "my house" you say "bet-i," House is "bet" and the "i" is my. Same goes for her, his, our, but different tags. Anyway, let’s just say I speak a very broken form of Arabic. LOL

Arabic TV:
I watch TV on occasion. Sponge Bob and Oprah in Arabic are a trip. Most of the time Arabic television is on some kids show.

Quiet Time:
I love waking up in the morning, sitting on the balcony and watching the sun rise. Not all the way, I am not up that early. I take my tea and a book out in the morning and evening and have a little me time.

The Program:
The program itself is not what I expected. We are way to busy all the time. I work like this at home; I wanted this to be more of a break. We go to volunteer in the morning. Two hours for lunch, well one really cuz it takes an hour by foot to get to the college. Then Arabic until 5 and something after, a speaker or get together. Then an hour’s walk home, too much food, and bed. Hardly have time to blog and definitely no time to edit my posts. I always seem to feel rushed.

By the way, I am still not at the shelter yet. Some disappointing news, they are having security issues and not sure about my placement. I am currently writing articles for Palestine News Network. On Monday, I am hoping to have a conversation with the man who funded my trip about the shelter and if he will continue funding the two months if I don't get placed there. Working at the shelter was also allowing me to use the experience for Continued Competencies for my CAC III. So staying for two months without that and the funding thing is making me uncomfortable, a little. I think I will feel better after I talk to my funding source and see where he is at with things.

OK all, I miss work. Horrible I know, I know, but I said it.
I miss my friends too and my apartment and driving.
I am sure time will fly by and it will be time to leave before I am ready to go home.

Tomorrow:
I am going to the Dead Sea with the family. I can’t wait. When I say family I mean: George and Sumiya, Nancy, Muhannad and the two kids, Muhannad’s two brothers- their wives and their three kids. So yea, it will be good times.

Jerusalem: The Old City

2011-06-25T05:01:00.000-07:00

My day in Jerusalem started after a quite night in The Little House in Baka. The small Inn was located in the German Colony of Jeruslalem, a ways from the Old City. It was a long walk to the gate of the Old City, but worth it conisidering I saved around $80. Everything is expensive in Jerusalem, especially near and in the Old City.

I got a map of the Old City at the hotel and when I was finished and back in Beit Sahour I outlined my 5 mile walk. I wish I could upload it somehow and share my path with you. I tried taking a picture of it but that didn't work so well. Words will have to be enough...

I passed Mt Zion and entered at Jaffa Gate (Christian Quarter) and went to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. The church was built on the sight of Golgatha. When you walk in there is a stone that has been recreated to represent the place where the blood of Jesus was washed away.

Not what one might think, just to let you know ahead of time. The land od Judea and Sumaria is nothing like the literature of the Bible. Golgatha is literaly inside the church. The entire Old City has become such a tourist magnet that I found it hard to truly reflect on the scriptures. The one place I found true reflection was on the Mount of Olives which I will get to later.

After entering Jaffa Gate and visiting the chuch I enjoyed all the markets. Vendors are everywhere and everything is rididulously high priced. I wanted to buy a cross necklace for my sister and couldn't find one for less then $30, without the chain and not real silver. Sorry sis, didn't buy one. I wouldn't pay that in the states, and at least there the vendor can tell me what it is made of. I wondered down the stone paths and looked for some other gifts, still all too expensive and didn't end up buying anthing. However, I did end up getting lost. LOL The many street markets all started to look the same and I completely lost my sense of direction. I finally asked someone where the Via Dolorosa was and ventured there.

Again, it was hard to feel the conviction one experiences when reading about Jesus' walk down the Road of Sorrow. I thought walking the Via Dolorosa would envoke a more powerful spiritual awakening. It was powerful, don't get me wrong, just not as one might expect. Again the busy tourist and obnoxious vendors may have something to do with it. One even went so far as to ask me for a kiss, big mistake. I didn't stick around to look at his merchandise.

The Via Dolorosa is a long street with many stations to represent the different times Jesus fell. There are wooden crosses that you can carry, if you choose. I didn't. From the Christian Quater the Via Dolorosa actually extends into the Muslim Quarter. I walked the length of it into the Muslim Quarter and turned around to head to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall.

To enter the Western Wall you first have to go through a Police Station where you and your belongings are scanned. Once through the little checkpoint, there is a side for women and men. I preceeded to the men's side to see if I would get in trouble. Just kidding. :) I have no intention of "playing" with the IDF or Israeli Police while I am here. (My friend was protesting at the wall around this time and was detained, fingerprinted, and photos of her were taken by the IDF, not my cup of tea.) So the Western Wall was largely uneventful, but sad. To think it was all that was left of the Jewish Temple.

The section where the Dome of the Rock is, Mt Moria, and El Aqsa Mosque was closed. I hope to visit another day and spend some more time on Mt Zion as well. I exited out Dung Gate and entered into the City of David.

I walked through the City of David via a path along the main road to Mt of Olives. Once I reached an overlook called Ophel Promenade I was able to view the tombs of Jehoshaphat, Bnei Hezir, and Zechariah. I got some great pictures of the the tombs and Mt of Olives. I continued my walk up the mountain and to the Mt of Olives, a long and most tiresome uphill battle.

I kept walking until I reached the Church of Mary Magdalene, the architecture of this church was amazing. I didn't stay long because I figured if I did I would give in and not make it up the mountain to the Church of the Ascension ( the Olive Garden from wich Jesus was taken) and the Dominus Flevit (the cave where Jesus prayed with the disciples).

I made it to the Church of the Ascension and had to pay an entry fee. There is a large dome shape made of rock around the place where Jesus was taken. Nothing elaborate, which seems to unviel the sorrow of the event that took place here.

However, Dominus Flevit was incredible. Here you can view the Lords Prayer in 167 languages, and walk through Olive Groves, well only if you become friends with the manager. The manager was a short, old, French man who kindly showed me around and invited me to tea after. The most amazing thing happened when he offered me a chance to take sand, rocks and even some mosiac. He helped me hunt for mosiac from the Byzantine church that was built in 643 AD. He showed me a tree that was the same kind of prickly branched tree that was used as the crown of the thorns, and even cut off a piece for me to take. I couldn't believe it! I carried down sand, mosiac, rock and even branches from trees down the mountain with me!

Rock where the Blood of Jesus was washed away (not the original one)

Entrance to the steps leading to Golgotha.

"Said" location of Jesus' Cross

Road of Sorrow: Where Jesus walked before he was crucified.

Western Wall: Part of the strucure that supports the Temple Mount from the west. The second Jewish temple was destroyed in 70 AD and this remnant has become the holiest of Jewish sites.

Dome of the Rock (Temple Mount: From Inside the Old City.

Zechariah's Tomb

Jehoshaphat's Tomb

Church of Mary Magdalene

Church of the Ascension

Dominus Flevit

Lords Prayer: Arabic

Lords Prayer: English

Crown of Thorns Tree

Dome of the Rock and Old City: From Mt of Olives

Visiting Ayem

2011-06-24T01:23:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I got to visit the little kiddo I sponsor through World Vision, it was incredible.

I traveled to Jerusalem by myself, with every intent of enjoying the solidarity... and I am, it is soo nice to be alone. Yes all those reading this and shaking their heads thinking, "Yep she will never get married," your probably right. LOL

Okay so back to the trip, it started in Bethlehem at the checkpoint. I had driven through them but never walked. I expected to just show the soldier my passport and walk through the gate. It didn't happen like that. After walking through the gate, constructed paths with barriers on all sides lead you to an uderground terminal. Much like the airport, I had to put all my things on the belt and they were scanned. Before you can retrieve your items a soldier checks your ID. If you are Palestinian and traveling from checkpoint to checkpoint and into different sections you have to get a permit. So you show them your permit, Palestinian ID #, and they scan your hand. The young man in front of me had some problems with the hand scanner and it took him about ten minutes to get past. I flashed a US passport and walked right through, at that moment I felt a distinct feeling of privelage that I had never felt before. The feeling stuck with me as we rode to the World Vision office in Jerusalem.

Once we arrived at the WV office on Mount of Olives I met with the staff and had a security breifing. The security briefing was intense and Tako, yea that is his name, kept telling me, "I don't mean to scare you." The project where my little boy lives is in a village called Kufraldik in the Silfit District. It is surrounded by settlements and much of the land and roads nearby are under IDF control. Needless to stay it doesn't make for very happy Palestinian residents. Tako went over what to do if I was tear gased or if rubber bullets were fired. What to do if I was shot at or if soldiers were hassling me. What else... oh yes, the sound bombs, he went over that too. Are you scared yet? :)

Here is the irony, it was the most peaceful place I have been to. Silfit is in the mountains and a longer trip then I had expected. Once we arrived in the city I was taken to the office and met with the project manager and the rest of the staff. He briefed me on what they were doing in the area. Their efforts inlcuded; empowering women, building a school, teaching locals how to cultivate the land, and a new livestock plan to give 90 families 2 sheep. He also told me how the money I send every month is dispersed. It doesn't go directly to the family, but rather serves the community as a whole. For instance my boy can go to school now because they built one, his father can cultivate the land and provide for the family, etc.

After my time at the office we drove down to the village. One of the staff members showed me the sewage valley where the sewage from the settlements goes and pollutes the water of the residents. There are so many things happening here, it is hard to comprehend them let alone portray the raw emotion that comes along with them in blog. We kept driving further into the mountains and after the smell faded we arrived at the Mayor's office. I met with him chatted for a bit and waited for the boy to come.

Ayem walked in and didn't even look up. Once in front of me he looked into my eyes and extended his hand and said, "Hello," in English. That was the best part, he become very quiet after that. I had an interpretor but I think he was super nervous and overwhelmed by all the people and this lady sitting by him with pale skin and blue eyes. I spoke to him a bit in Arabic and he got more comfortable as time went on and showed me his school and his home. He said he was on the honor roll at school and wanted to be astronaut. I asked him if he wanted to go to school in America, and he very distinctly answerd with a no. It was the first time I wished I could speak better Arabic, I wanted to talk to him so badly.

I couldn't go into his home because his mother was resting after recently having a baby girl. His father and sister were also along and showed us a spring that was polluted. Later we stopped and I got the kids some snacks. I wanted to stay longer, it was Ayem's birthday and he turned ten. The family was having a cake and party and invited me to join them but the staff had to get back. We were not expecting the trip to be so long. My pickup on the Jerusalem side of the Bethlehem checkpoint was at 9:30 and we didn't arrive back on Mount of Olives until 4:30. It was perfect though, not many people have chances like this. I am excited to watch him grow in letters and pictures and maybe come back to his graduation someday.

What is next? Today I am walking around Jerusalem. A kind of faith walk in the steps of Jesus. So later I will tell you all about it.

PS: Don't give me a hard time, the spell check wasn't working. :)

Parks and Wrecks

2011-06-20T10:00:00.000-07:00

I talked to my mom today, two things; she was mad I called my boss and anxiously awaiting the next blog. So under strict orders from her I am not to call work again and post a long update on the last few days. The blog I can do, work, I am not so sure.

Where to start…

Parks

The kids fill my days with joy and I wish I could spend more time with them. Even after the chocolate stains on my new white shirt, Fadi makes me smile. Qusai finally spoke to me a few days ago. I had been saying, “Hello and good morning, good evening and how are you,” for a very long time and he finally said “marhaba,” which means hello. I quickly learned how rambunctious little Quasi is, not so quiet after all. I ate breakfast with Nancy and the kids one morning and helped her put together some DVDs. Muhannan is a photographer and recently made a DVD about a Palestinian Dance Group.

Anyway, during our work Quasi was banging around in the kitchen and giving his little brother a hard time. Loud screams and fake bangs from Quasi’s toy gun as well as the sporadic cries of Fadi could be heard down the street. It is so comforting to be living in a new place far from home and know that children laugh and cry in the same language all over the world.

Though, I learned very quickly that play time for kids in Beit Sahour does not look like play time in America. On Friday we went to the park with the kids, and I experienced the most gut wrenching part of my stay. Well, besides the literal gut wrenching that happens from time to time. I am still not used to the hills or the food.

We were driving to the park and I learned that this was the only place in all of Beit Sahour that the kids could come to for play. Then I saw the soldiers on the hill by the road. Muhannan said they were protecting settlement lands, and my heart sank. For those that do not know, settlements are neighborhoods built by Israel for its people on Palestinian land. The old saying of, “a land without people for a people without land,” comes to mind when I think of settlements, because it still rings true today even after the big Israeli “land grab” of 1948 when 700,000 Palestinians lost their homes. Muhannan said the name of the settlement was something like, Shitma. I am sure I am getting that wrong, but I wasn’t listening all that close, except to the beginning. So I made my opinion about settlements clear when I made the joke of saying, “Well that’s appropriate because they are Shit.” He understood completely, laughed and shook his head in agreement.

Wrecks

We went to Abu Dis which is a city by the separation wall, and has become a dangerous one. Abu Dis is in Section B, which is controlled by Israel and does not allow for Palestinian Police. Two things have come with that; drugs and a dual municipality of sorts where the Palestinians run the streets and in ways make their own laws while Israel does not enforce theirs. Just yesterday two drug related murders took place when Palestinian groups sought justice on their own.

As we drove down the “green line” (the boundary line between the years of 1948 and 1967) I saw the wall snake through the towns and cities separating families and wrecking the economy and spirits of a people, my heart sank once again. Two young boys with Arabic rap music blaring from their car drove up to a locked and rundown store front. When asked why they were closed, one of them cursed in Arabic and raised an angry fist to the wall. Even for those who do not speak Arabic his face and body language said it all; they closed because of the wall.

… A wreck, a tragic wreck indeed.

Greetings from Beit Sahour

2011-06-17T03:10:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Bethlehem yesterday and was driven to my new home in Beit Sahour, a small city a few miles away. The family I am living with is a Christian family. When I called my mother she asked me what my new home was like. Funny, I said it reminded me of the my Dominican families house in the Bronx. The entire family was born in Beit Sahour and live in four houses next each other. I am living with George and Sumya and they are very kind, but they speak Arabic way to fast for me to follow. Their son Muhannan and his wife Nancy live below us with their two children, Qusai, 3 years, and Fadi, one year. Nancy and Muhannan speak English. Nancy has become my Arabic partner, so to speak, and I am excited about that. The best part of my stay so far has been watching Fadi. He never has shoes on and is always walking on his tip toes, it is the most adorable thing. He was curious and quiet at first. Last night he sneaked over and ended up in my lap. His curly hair smelled like olive oil as I kissed his head and said good night.

Just a quick for note for everyone... and hope you catch me again. I have to go to the store and get an adapter for my computer today, which will make the blogging thing a little easier.

Blessings

Identity Card by Palestinian Poet- Mahmoud Darwish

2011-05-13T15:38:00.000-07:00

Record!
I am an Arab
And my identity card is number fifty thousand
I have eight children
And the nineth is coming after a summer
Will you be angry?

Record!
I am an Arab
Employed with fellow workers at a quarry
I have eight children
I get them bread
Garments and books
from the rocks..
I do not supplicate charity at your doors
Nor do I belittle myself at the footsteps of your chamber
So will you be angry?

Record!
I am an Arab
I have a name without a title
Patient in a country
Where people are enraged
My roots
Were entrenched before the birth of time
And before the opening of the eras
Before the pines, and the olive trees
And before the grass grew

My father.. descends from the family of the plow
Not from a privileged class
And my grandfather..was a farmer
Neither well-bred, nor well-born!
Teaches me the pride of the sun
Before teaching me how to read
And my house is like a watchman's hut
Made of branches and cane
Are you satisfied with my status?
I have a name without a title!

Record!
I am an Arab
You have stolen the orchards of my ancestors
And the land which I cultivated
Along with my children
And you left nothing for us
Except for these rocks..
So will the State take them
As it has been said?!

Therefore!
Record on the top of the first page:
I do not hate poeple
Nor do I encroach
But if I become hungry
The usurper's flesh will be my food
Beware..
Beware..
Of my hunger
And my anger!


by Mahmoud Darwish